We are almost in a different country. More tropical, more laid back, more color, seemingly less dilapidated infrastructure. Lovely. Saturday began with the flight from Havana to Santiago in an old Soviet plane. Uneventful except for the steam that rose from the floor as we gathered speed for takeoff. Apparently totally normal for Soviet planes (something to do with how the AC works), and a bit of a shock as it looked a lot like smoke. Santiago is on the coast, in the south and east of Cuba, almost as close to Haiti as Havana is to Cuba. In Santiago we have four or five cars and their drivers, plus Oscar and Raul. All greet us at the airport. Oscar and Raul are very involved with the culture and history of Santiago and the Caribbean, and we learned a lot over the course of the day. Santiago is the second oldest city in Cuba, founded in 1511. They are proud to be the "cradle of independence," first for the was of independence from Spain, and later for the revolution. The beautiful mountains around the city are the sierras where Fidel et al hung out between 1953 and 1959. Son and bolero originate in Santiago, and this weekend is the conclusion of Cuba Disco, something like the Cuban Grammies.
After checking into our Soviet-era hotel, we went to El Morro a huge 1630 fort on a hill overlooking the ocean and the bay. First lunch on a terrace overlooking the ocean, then (for those of us still standing- remember we left the hotel at 4:30 a.m.), a tour of the fort. At the end of the war of independence (1898), the American fleet picked off the Spanish fleet one by one as they came out of the Santiago harbor. This and the history of piracy are explained in the museum within the walls of the fort. Back to the hotel for a quick shower, then we walk to Casa de Caribe for a special performance (just for us) of Orfeum, a truly spectacular choir. As we walked in, they were lined up singing on both sides of the entrance hall. A total surprise, and so beautiful Mary and I were both in tears. Even as I write, it happens again.
After the concert we learn about Casa de Caribe. Raul is an anthropologist and does his work here. It's a center for the study of the Caribbean, with a particular focus on African culture and history. Then we walk on to San Juan Hill. On the way, I used my not so good Spanish to tell Raul about Buckey O'Neil and the Prescott connection to San Juan Hill. Raul announces that Antonia is moved to be at San Juan Hill, where the Mayor of her City gave his life for the cause of Cuban independence from Spain, and as it turns out, I am. We find Buckey's name on the plaques listing the fallen, and wonder if this might be the first visit from Prescott in over 50 years.
Dinner in a rooftop palador, a long walk through the street festival that is part of Cuba Disco, then we fall into bed, ready I hope for today. First a dance lesson (yikes!), later music and more music.
I love it here.
Toni
After checking into our Soviet-era hotel, we went to El Morro a huge 1630 fort on a hill overlooking the ocean and the bay. First lunch on a terrace overlooking the ocean, then (for those of us still standing- remember we left the hotel at 4:30 a.m.), a tour of the fort. At the end of the war of independence (1898), the American fleet picked off the Spanish fleet one by one as they came out of the Santiago harbor. This and the history of piracy are explained in the museum within the walls of the fort. Back to the hotel for a quick shower, then we walk to Casa de Caribe for a special performance (just for us) of Orfeum, a truly spectacular choir. As we walked in, they were lined up singing on both sides of the entrance hall. A total surprise, and so beautiful Mary and I were both in tears. Even as I write, it happens again.
After the concert we learn about Casa de Caribe. Raul is an anthropologist and does his work here. It's a center for the study of the Caribbean, with a particular focus on African culture and history. Then we walk on to San Juan Hill. On the way, I used my not so good Spanish to tell Raul about Buckey O'Neil and the Prescott connection to San Juan Hill. Raul announces that Antonia is moved to be at San Juan Hill, where the Mayor of her City gave his life for the cause of Cuban independence from Spain, and as it turns out, I am. We find Buckey's name on the plaques listing the fallen, and wonder if this might be the first visit from Prescott in over 50 years.
Dinner in a rooftop palador, a long walk through the street festival that is part of Cuba Disco, then we fall into bed, ready I hope for today. First a dance lesson (yikes!), later music and more music.
I love it here.
Toni
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