Much has happened since last we spoke. In fact it feels like weeks since we first met up in Miami. Sunday started with the dance lesson- salsa and son, although to be frank, I didn't notice when we switched. Perhaps that's the point where it started to seem I truly do have two left feet. The count for both is 1-2-3 5--6-7, and I was doing well (for me) on the basics, up through alone, together, open, closed, turn. Then they added changing sides and it all fell apart. Oh well. The dance lesson was in a part of Santiago where many French Haitians settled after the Haitian revolution around 1800. We passed by a police station that was attacked by revolutionaries in 1956 to distract authorities from Fidel's landing in the Grama, and also by the oldest house in Cuba, slept in (if I heard right) by Cortes on his way to Mexico and DeSoto on his way to Florida. After lunch at another rooftop palador where we are the first guests from the United States, on to a performance of Tomba Francaise. This comes from slave times in Cuba and combines African drums and rhythms with French planter dress and even a maypole dance. There are only three tomba francaise societies left. Wonderful, and you'll have to wait for the photos.
Speaking of photos, my camera is down for the count (rain!), and its possible there will be none after yesterday afternoon. Yesterday we drove to Palma, a vilage 45 minutes from Santiago. Shared the highway with horses, ox carts, bicycles, and eventually arrived at a small house where we sat for a while as the saint spoke with Ariana. Yes, this was the home of a voodoo priest and the rest of the morning was spent in and out of the temple (a very small windowless shed) in the backyard (think barnyard) of the home. The ceremony had something to do with healing and involved anointing with some aromatic oil, candles, ashes, much ritual and ceremonial drinking of rum mixed with herbs, from bottles that had been buried in the ground. An old priest with the feel of the Dalai Lama and a younger priest who seemed to be possessed by the saints. Or maybe it was something else entirely. As we take our leave of the saint, at one point the older priest is smoking a pipe with the bowl in his mouth and the younger is pouring rum in his ears. Hot and overwhelming, yet also benign and tranquil. Not at all scary or creepy.
At one point most of us sat in the barnyard and learned a bit about what this group was doing. It involves turning 45 hectares of land into an agricultural center in harmony with the teachings of voodoo. It is at the confluence of two rivers. There is a beautiful design that will theoretically be visible from the air sometime in the future. After lunch we hiked to the land to plant avocado seedlings. The land at present is a mile from any road, and you need to cross one of the rivers before climbing up on the mesa. So far it has been cleared and a rough lean-to erected. Much time is spent using a measuring tape to decide where our seedlings will go. as this is happening it begins to rain, first a drizzle, then a major downpour with thunder and lightning, all of which is crashing and flashing very close. General joy among the Cubans, as this is the first rain in a long time, the earth is very dry, and until now, any water has been hauled up by hand. Plus it is an indication that the ceremony has gone well. A blessing. Mixed reactions from our group.
Inches of rain continue to fall (hence the now useless camera) and we eventually make our way off the hill, slipping and sliding down the now extremely muddy trail. At some point, several young boys greet us with great excitement. I hear ariba and am sure a flash flood is coming, as it surely would in Arizona. Once they slow down I realize they are saying they have helped the man with the beard and glasses across the river and up. They help us as well, and we are eventually back across the now waist deep river and making a dripping parade through town. Definitely a source of entertainment for the locals. Back at the house we drip on the porch until one of the guys returns with a selection of dry clothes. Amazing generosity. We return to the hotel looking like campesinos, and are warmly greeted by the hotel staff.
Actually we return minus Ariana and Debbie, who have stayed for a last-minute offering of fire eating and breaking of glass on tongues that Ariana promises will be truly amazing, largely thanks to the obvious success of the day's ceremony. They guys have come "down from the mountains" to perform for us. Tempting and it has already been a very full day, and showers and dinner call. Photographer Debbie will have photos.
Today will be more pedestrian. Artists studios at 10 a.m.
Toni
Speaking of photos, my camera is down for the count (rain!), and its possible there will be none after yesterday afternoon. Yesterday we drove to Palma, a vilage 45 minutes from Santiago. Shared the highway with horses, ox carts, bicycles, and eventually arrived at a small house where we sat for a while as the saint spoke with Ariana. Yes, this was the home of a voodoo priest and the rest of the morning was spent in and out of the temple (a very small windowless shed) in the backyard (think barnyard) of the home. The ceremony had something to do with healing and involved anointing with some aromatic oil, candles, ashes, much ritual and ceremonial drinking of rum mixed with herbs, from bottles that had been buried in the ground. An old priest with the feel of the Dalai Lama and a younger priest who seemed to be possessed by the saints. Or maybe it was something else entirely. As we take our leave of the saint, at one point the older priest is smoking a pipe with the bowl in his mouth and the younger is pouring rum in his ears. Hot and overwhelming, yet also benign and tranquil. Not at all scary or creepy.
At one point most of us sat in the barnyard and learned a bit about what this group was doing. It involves turning 45 hectares of land into an agricultural center in harmony with the teachings of voodoo. It is at the confluence of two rivers. There is a beautiful design that will theoretically be visible from the air sometime in the future. After lunch we hiked to the land to plant avocado seedlings. The land at present is a mile from any road, and you need to cross one of the rivers before climbing up on the mesa. So far it has been cleared and a rough lean-to erected. Much time is spent using a measuring tape to decide where our seedlings will go. as this is happening it begins to rain, first a drizzle, then a major downpour with thunder and lightning, all of which is crashing and flashing very close. General joy among the Cubans, as this is the first rain in a long time, the earth is very dry, and until now, any water has been hauled up by hand. Plus it is an indication that the ceremony has gone well. A blessing. Mixed reactions from our group.
Inches of rain continue to fall (hence the now useless camera) and we eventually make our way off the hill, slipping and sliding down the now extremely muddy trail. At some point, several young boys greet us with great excitement. I hear ariba and am sure a flash flood is coming, as it surely would in Arizona. Once they slow down I realize they are saying they have helped the man with the beard and glasses across the river and up. They help us as well, and we are eventually back across the now waist deep river and making a dripping parade through town. Definitely a source of entertainment for the locals. Back at the house we drip on the porch until one of the guys returns with a selection of dry clothes. Amazing generosity. We return to the hotel looking like campesinos, and are warmly greeted by the hotel staff.
Actually we return minus Ariana and Debbie, who have stayed for a last-minute offering of fire eating and breaking of glass on tongues that Ariana promises will be truly amazing, largely thanks to the obvious success of the day's ceremony. They guys have come "down from the mountains" to perform for us. Tempting and it has already been a very full day, and showers and dinner call. Photographer Debbie will have photos.
Today will be more pedestrian. Artists studios at 10 a.m.
Toni
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