Since then I’ve been on a digital diet. Other than a couple “splurges” on 5 pesos ($0.37)/15 minutes Wi-Fi, the little RV park here in Loreto is our first internet access since crossing the border at Tecate. So far it’s been a grand Baja road trip, my first this far south since 1975, one year after completion of the Transpeninsular Highway. As you might imagine, much has changed. Other than general growth, most noticeable to me is the development of agriculture, from the vineyards in Valle de Guadalupe to the organic farms around Mulege. I’m guessing this is due to some combination of access to transportation (the paved highway to U.S. markets) and NAFTA, and imagine the agribusiness we see comes at a cost of depleted ground water.
Our fist night in Baja was on the grounds of LA Cetto, a vineyard in the Valle de Guadalupe, source of 85% of wines produced in Mexico. Although there are many small production wineries in the valley, LA Cetto is more of a wine factory, with trucks and machinery rumbling 24/7. We loved the few wines we tasted, and hope to return for a more extended exploration.
From Valle de Guadalupe, we passed through Ensenada and San Quintin, then on to Catavina, land of cirios and elephant trees, followed by Bahia de Los Angeles, on the Sea of Cortez.
We returned to the Pacific and camped at Ojo de Liebre (Scammon’s Lagoon), where we spent a morning among more whales, mostly mother/calf pairs, than you can imagine. No great photos. Not only did I not bring the smartphone, I was a bit overwhelmed by all the action. On to San Ignacio, then Mulege, where Mary and I were able to visit the cave paintings at Rancho Trinidad. We had to swim (me) or boat (Mary) a very short distance to reach them. Our tour included an introduction to native uses of local plants. It seems every part of every desert plant we see in the desert can be used to cure something. Lots to learn, and I already forgot most of it.
After a night on the beach at El Requeson, we find ourselves in Loreto. A long day of driving should bring us to La Paz tomorrow. From there we’ll circle through the Cabos and up the Pacific to Todos Santos, where we will spend a week.
The van is doing well, and I am loving our portable 80 watt solar panel. Toby is having a great time.
Apologies for the rushed report. It’s late and we’re planning an early start.
Love to all, Toni
Toni and Mary - Your trip looks so wonderful. I so wish we could do this type of trip too, but these journeys will have to wait until Dave retires at some point down the road. Your photos are magnificent! Hope you will print some up on canvas when you return home. You could do an exhibit! Thank you for sharing this slice of heaven on earth.
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