Postcard from South Africa- Part 2

In South Africa, the Western Cape is about as far as you can get from Zululand.  Both provinces were easing into the summer season. In KwaZulu-Natal, winter is the dry season.  Summer is wet.  In Cape Town, winter is the wet season. Summer is dry. Everywhere it was early spring, i.e. weather was changeable, temperatures variable, and there was plenty of wind. On the plus side, in KwaZulu-Natal we saw baby rhinos, elephants, giraffes, etc. In the Western Cape, everything was in bloom.
Plants like Bird of Paradise grow wild in the Western Cape, home to a particular plant community called Fynbos.The pink-ish King Protea is the national flower of South Africa.

While in the Cape Town area, we visited nine of the “top 10” sites- the Company’s Garden, the V&A Waterfront, the District Six Museum,Table Mountain, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Groot Constantia Wine Estate, Simon’s Town and Boulders Beach, Stellenbosch, and the Cape of Good Hope. Also Robben Island (where Mandela was imprisoned for 18 of the 27 years he served behind bars), the Cape Flats Townships, the colorful Bo-Kaap (Cape Malay) community and Hermanus (best place in the world for land-based viewing of the southern right whale).

Thanks to travelling companions Ski and Dicy, we stayed in a beach-town time-share. As it was a self-catering unit, we quickly developed a routine of elegant lunches out, with breakfast and dinner at “home” in Strand.  This worked particularly well in the Western Cape, home to what might well be the best food and wine I've ever enjoyed, in the most spectacular settings, and for the most reasonable prices. Too bad it’s not an easy weekend getaway!

Of course we saw birds.  Endemic to the Western Cape are many lovely sunbirds, including the Orange-breasted Sunbird and the Southern Double-collared Sunbird. 
Also African Penguins and Blue Cranes, the national bird of South Africa.

It wasn't all gorgeous scenery and birds.  Apartheid ended less than 25 years ago. While there is much to admire in this “rainbow nation,” South Africa still has a long road to walk. Income and opportunity disparities are huge, and fall largely along racial lines.  For more on this topic, try this recent New York Times Room for Debate feature.  We were lucky to visit the Cape Flats Townships and the city of Soweto, including the pre-prison home of Nelson Mandela (for black South Africans, think Mount Vernon).

If you would like to see movies set in post-apartheid South Africa, I would recommend three very different films: ”Invictus,” “Searching for Sugar Man” and “Material.” On the book front, I’ve read two series of thrillers- Deon Meyer’s Benny Greissel novels (first is “Devil’s Peak”) and Jassy Mackenzie’s Jade de Jong investigations (first is “Random Violence”). Despite translation (rom Afrikaans), Deon Meyers is the better writer and gives readers more of a window into the dynamics of 21st century South Africa. Alan Paton’s "Cry the Beloved Country,” first published in 1948, is still a beautiful and insightful read.

Postcard from South Africa- Part 1

Although we’ve been home for a couple of weeks, South Africa still looms large in my thoughts and dreams.  We spent a week or so in the northeast (KwaZulu-Natal Province), a week or so in the southwest (Western Cape Province), and (after missing our flight from O.R. Tambo to JFK) a bonus day in Johannesburg (Gauteng Province).  Along the way, we viewed game of all sorts, dipped into South African history and politics, and sampled some amazing food and wine.  Trip highlight- Mary saw 122 new bird species!
We began with a stay at Zulu Nyala, a private game reserve not far from the town of Hluhluwe. Our accommodations included early morning and late afternoon game drives, during which we saw cheetah
,
rhino,
elephant, buffalo, hippo,
 
giraffe, nyala, zebra, impala and more.

  
Seeing game at Zulu Nyala is not quite the same as seeing game “in the wild.” That we were more able to do on day trips to the St. Lucia Estuary (iSimangaliso Wetland Park) and Hluhluwe/iMfolozi Park, established in the 1890’s.Thanks to a massive conservation effort, Hluhluwe/iMfolozi has the largest concentration of white rhino in the world. 
This monitor lizard was bigger and faster than a gila monster. 



During our week in KwaZulu Natal, we saw the Southern Red-billed Hornbill, a very wet African Fish Eagle,
,
the Lilac-breasted Roller,the Marico Sunbird, the Brown-hooded Kingfisher,

and a four-foot tall Secretary Bird.
The Western Cape will be a separate post.

Postcard from Aspen

When last we spoke (August 2), we were in Oliver B.C., getting ready to cross over into Washington.  Seems like eons ago.  Before crossing the border, we visited a couple of wineries on west bank of the Okanogan River, and learned the differences between the Black Sage Bench and the Golden Mile Bench.  One is better for reds, one for German-style whites.  Many wineries have vineyards on both benches.  Although theoretically we were only allowed two bottles each, U.S. Customs was not at all interested in the seven bottles we declared. 
From the border, it’s a bit of a blur, and I took less photos to jog my memory, figuring you’ve all tired of forests, lakes and waterfalls.  Lucky for me, no details are lost. Mary has been keeping a trip log that’s turned into a bit of a novella.
We headed east on Highway 20 and eventually ended up at a lovely campsite between Beaver Lake and Lake Beth.  In the waning light, saw beaver (Mary) and muskrat (Toni & Mary) in Beaver Lake.  Thanks to an informational sign in the Cranberry Marsh in Valemont B.C., we know our beavers and muskrats.  Beavers get along well in their well-designed lodges.  Muskrat lodges are haphazard, and the muskrats  get cranky in close quarters. If you see one or the other, the fact you need is ten muskrats = one beaver.
We continued on Highway 20 to Kettle Falls, where we encountered one of those helpful National Park rangers who get get excited about planning your next few days, in or out of their park.   This one sent us to St. Paul’s Mission, near the original Kettle Falls, now under Lake Roosevelt, which holds water from all those rivers we visited in the Kootenay Rockies.  Good vibe from the sharpening stone on the bluff, an amphibolite left by the last glacier. Before the Grand Coulee Dam of Woody Guthrie fame, this was the second largest salmon fishery on the Columbia River. A good day could produce over 2000 salmon weighing 16 pounds or more. Now it's Lake Roosevelt.
We headed north to Sullivan Lake, and were practically back in B.C. We toyed briefly with the tempting idea of revisiting the Kootenays.  Interesting area, developed in the early 1900’s as a source of hydro power for the town of Metaline Falls.   Logs were floated downstream, used to build a dam and a flume. When the flume was boarded over, folks in Metaline Falls would walk the flume to Mill Pond, then hike on to Sullivan Lake for a picnic.  One of many impressive labor-intensive construction projects we have encountered on this trip, all relatively short-lived. 

We camped in lovely forest service campgrounds (our favorites!) on the banks of various creeks (loved Rock Creek and the small town of Phillipsburg), and eventually reached Missoula MT, home of friends Katie & Bill Klutchko.  They had just moved into their not-quite-finished home, the 3rd or maybe 4th Bill has built, and we were their first house guests.  Beautiful view through their windows to the Bitterroots.
On across Montana, through northern Yellowstone, where we were briefly stopped by bison crossing the road, then over stunning Beartooth Pass to Absaroke, where Deb and Bill Ford have a place, also still under construction.  This one is totally off the grid. From the deck it feels like you are flying out over the forest into the valley below.  Armed with bear spray and bear bell for Toby, we hiked with them to the headwaters of the Stillwater.  Gorgeous!

Left for eastern Montana and the Little Big Horn Battlefield National Monument, site of Custer’s Last Stand, and spent two or three hours retracing the battle.  To do this you drive five miles one way past increasing numbers of headstones marking where 7th Cavalry and Indian Scouts died,  fighting Sioux and Cheyenne warriors.  All this through rolling grasslands above the flat camping area along the Little Big Horn.  The auto tour gives you a real feel for the progress of the battle, and was an unexpectedly engrossing and emotional experience. 

Little Big Horn was the easternmost point of our big loop. We continued south and west through Buffalo and Thermopolis towards South Pass.  Thermopolis bills itself as home to the world's largest mineral hot spring. The springs are open to the public for free as part of an 1896 treaty signed with the Shoshone and Arapaho tribes!  We visited the public baths, and treated ourselves to the allotted 20-minute soak followed by a hot shower and a walk with Toby along the Big Horn River.  The hot springs water originates in the Owl Mountains south of town.  As the water seeps down through layers of porous rock, it is heated due to geothermal gradient, i.e., the deeper you go, the hotter it gets.  When the heated water reaches the rocks of the Thermopolis Anticline, it is forced back to the surface, where it emerges as hot springs.

We camped at the head of scenic Wind River Canyon, and learned the Wind River and the Big Horn River are actually the same river. This turned out to be our last night of camping.  In the morning, we followed the route of the Oregon Trail  over South Pass, then descended gradually towards Rock Springs, Wyoming.  As we pulled into town to look for groceries and a growler fill, Van’s automatic transmission quickly lost the ability to go into any gear other than reverse.   It got worse before it got better.  This was Tuesday, and no shop in Rock Springs would even take a look before the following week.  Found a shop in Green River, Wyoming that would, so we had AAA tow us there, hoping it was something as simple as low transmission fluid.  No such luck.  After some investigation, mechanic Jesse decided we needed a new transmission.  We cooked our dinner at nearby Expedition Island, where Powell launched his 1869 expedition, and after a restless motel room night were ready to spend big bucks and give it all time to unfold.
Not so fast. I had great hopes for GoWesty. Their website says they have rebuilt 1997-2003 transmissions on hand and ready for same day shipping. The devil is in the details.  Turns out there are many styles and models of Eurovan transmissions.  Not only did they not have a CWG 01P300055EX, it wasn’t clear they ever would. Neither Jesse nor I nor Jesse’s used part suppliers nor VW nor Prescott Import Auto back home could locate the right style and model of transmission.  Stomachs sinking, we decided to rent a car and think the situation through on the road instead of in a motel room.

Beautiful drive south past Flaming Gorge Reservoir to Vernal, Utah.  Next morning we booked a UHaul truck and tow dolly for next Wednesday, then headed on to Dinosaur National Monument.  Wow!  It is quite a rush to see and touch real dinosaur bones in place.  And the rest of the monument is pretty spectacular too.  While we were wandering around the Split Mountain takeout from the Ladore Canyon stretch of the Green, I got a call from Samantha at GoWesty.  They were parting out a ‘97 Eurovan and found it had the CWG transmission.  They expected to have it rebuilt in a month or so. Did I want it?  Sold!  With our issues mostly resolved, we decided to continue the trip as planned and headed on to Aspen, Colorado to visit my parents. 

And Aspen is where we are now.  Doing our typical Aspen visit things.  Hike up Hunter Creek, Sunday morning rehearsal at the music tent, eat well, etc.  Tomorrow is the start of the big USA Pro Challenge bike race, and my parents’ house is two blocks off the Aspen Snowmass circuit route.  The racers make the circuit three times, so it should be fun.  Toby is thrilled to have the family together, and voices his approval at every opportunity. 
Tuesday we drive back to Green River. Wednesday we pick up the UHaul, hitch up the van, and head for home via a pretty much all-interstate route.  Caution due to 10-foot moving truck towing 17-foot van.  Hoping to avoid backing up, sharp turns, etc.
It’s been a good run. Thanks for following. We expect to be back on the road this winter, this time heading south into the Baja, with Todos Santos as our current destination.